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Window Sill Repair

Have you ever come across a product that worked so well you just wanted to go out and tell the whole world about it? No! Well I have. This article is based on my own personal experience and I have to admit that up until then,I had never come across a window sill repair job of quite this magnitude before.

Since the  house is 20 years old and I knew that a few of the windows would need to be repaired or replaced. Now there’s a big difference between the cost of replacing a window and the cost of repairing it. Being a handy kind of guy, I decided to try and repair it first,  if this wasn’t going to work I could always replace it later,  if I had to.  So I took a couple of photo’s of the window before I started just so I could show  you  what sort of condition my window was in before the repairs began.

Phyllis's Camera Aug 2012 093
Before
How to Repair a Window Sill
Getting the rot out
How to Repair a Window Sill - 2
Starting to Apply WoodEpox
Window Sill Repair - 3
Close up of WoodEpox application

Phyllis's Photos 402Phyllis's Photos 403Phyllis's Photos 453

Applying WoodEpox to Window Frame, Frame Closeup, Installing New Sill and Trim

Phyllis's Photos 451
Window with new sill installed
Rotted Window Sill Repaired
After

To be honest, I  had a hard time believing it was the same window.  At the time that I took these pictures, the ideal of putting them on my blog was the furthest thing from mind.

So how did I tackle my widow sill repair job? First I did a lot of research on the Internet, just like you are doing now. After a few hours of research I settled on a product called Liquid Wood and WoodEpox, Wood Restoration Kit from Abatron.  Since there wasn’t a local dealer that sold this product, I ordered it on line; it arrived in just a few days.  I then proceeded to get myself familiar with the manufacturers instructions and followed the directions as instructed.

The hardest part, was removing as much as I could of the old rotted surface and sill. I took a screw driver and stiff paint scrapper and went to work.  Mush of the surface came off easy enough since most of it was rotted wood. It was a bit messy but really not that hard to do. The instructions say that you can actually leave the dry rot there and just coat it with the Liquid Wood, but I preferred to remove as much of rot as possible.

 

Watch This Amazing Window Sill Repair Video From ABATRON

 

After removing the rot and following the manufacturers instructions, I got a brush and the Liquid Wood that came in my kit and I began brushing  a liberal amount of Liquid Wood on all the rotted wood surfaces that I could find. The Liquid Wood penetrates the rotted wood and petrifies it, thereby stopping any further rotting.  Once the liquid wood as completely dried, it was time to apply the WoodEpox. I let my window frame dry overnight but I think that it may have been fine after only a few hours.

Applying the WoodEpox was quite easy, the kit came with a pair of clear disposable gloves that you really  should throw away as soon as you open the box, mine fell apart the first time I tried them on;  I recommend that you get a  pair of good  disposable rubber gloves for this job and don’t forget to wear them, that stuff sticks like you know what and it’s quite hard to get off your skin; but that’s good, it means that it really sticks.

Before  applying the WoodEpox you have to mix the two parts together.  Take a small amount of equal parts of the white and the beige epoxy and mix them together,  mix them until they become one overall consistent light beige colour.  This stuff hardens quite quickly so you don’t want to have a large amount ready before you can apply it or it will harden before you get the job done and you’ll have to start all over again. Now that you are ready to apply this stuff (don’t forget the gloves);  you can apply most of it with your hands and sort of mold it in place.

Abatron Wood Epox
WoodEpox Applied to Window Frame

Then you can smooth it down using the plastic knife that came with the kit. To make your job easier  you should half fill a cup with Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), and dip your putty knife in the alcohol to keep it from sticking to the WoodEpox. I found this worked rather well.  After you have made the surface as smooth as possible you can let it harden, this takes only a few hours.

Once the surface is hard, you can go at it with a sander or sandpaper, what you use will depend on the size of the surface that you are working with. I used a small sander and finished it off by hand using fine sandpaper.

Sanding Window Sill
Sanding WoodEpox

 

Once this was done, I applied a special exterior latex prime called “House and Trim Primer” from Valspar  and I finished it off with two coats of Valspar “Duramax” Exterior Paint. (Available at “Lowe’s Home Improvement Warehouse”)

Voilà! The finished product.

Yvan Window Repairs 001
The Final Outcome

Thank you for visiting this  page. Now that the window looks good, it maybe time to tackle the brick work. See you soon.

 

2 thoughts on “Window Sill Repair

  1. Yvan,

    Thanks for the glowing product referrals. I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to find this article. Would you mind if I use your photos on our website? They are excellent before and after shots!

    Richard – Abatron Sales Manager

    1. Thanks Richard, I have sent you a few additional photos by email. Please feel free to use anyone of them.
      Yvan

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